Tech Tips

GENERAL TIPS

Know Where You’re Headed

Before you launch that onsite attempt, take a moment to preview the route: “Sequence” the moves, notice where the route runs and ends, and double-check for other climbers that may be close as you ascend the line. Remember –

  • Lead routes can change quickdraw lines mid-route, and auto belay routes can intersect sections of top rope or lead routes.
  • Always check the route placard to ensure you are on the rope dedicated to the correct anchor number.
  • The climber on the wall first always has the right of way, including in the boulder area.

BELAYING

Avoid Your Lead Climber’s Fall Zone

One of the most common belayer injuries is a collision when the leader falls low on the route. Stay out of your climber’s fall zones!

  • Don’t stand directly under the first or second clip!
  • Stay close to the wall, but on the opposite side of the climber’s line.
  • Take weight differences into account. If the belayer is lighter, be prepared to be pulled upward.
  • Plan for where the fall will conclude.

GEAR

Lead Falls & Rope Rest

Dynamic ropes need time to recover after absorbing the forces from a lead fall. Get the most out of your rope and postpone the dreaded “core shot” by letting it rest between burns. Flipping which end the climber ties into after working a route and taking hard falls, or even after every couple of routes, is a good way to disperse wear and extend the life of your rope. In addition, letting your rope rest has been shown to reduce impact forces in drop tests.

For more on taking care of your rope, check out the video from Mammut below.

Match Your Rope To Your Belay Device

A belay device is always used in tandem with a climbing rope, and each device out there has an optimal range of rope widths it can handle. Most tube-like belay devices can accommodate a pretty wide spectrum of rope, but brake assisted belay devices work best within a narrower range.

  • The Black Diamond ATC can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm in diameter.
  • The Petzl Grigri and Grigri+ work best with ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm in diameter.
HMS Carabiners

Ever wonder why there are so many carabiner shapes and sizes? If you belay with a tubular style belay device (like a Black Diamond ATC) you should be using an “HMS” style carabiner.

  • What does “HMS” mean? Halbmastwurf sicherung loosely translates as “munter hitch belay carabiner”.
  • These types of carabiners are pear shaped and designed to have rope running over their more rounded edges.
  • Using a small anchor style locker to belay wears out the rope significantly faster than the larger, rounded HMS carabiner.

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