Before you launch that onsite attempt, take a moment to preview the route: “Sequence” the moves, notice where the route runs and ends, and double-check for other climbers that may be close as you ascend the line. Remember –
One of the most common belayer injuries is a collision when the leader falls low on the route. Stay out of your climber’s fall zones!
Dynamic ropes need time to recover after absorbing the forces from a lead fall. Get the most out of your rope and postpone the dreaded “core shot” by letting it rest between burns. Flipping which end the climber ties into after working a route and taking hard falls, or even after every couple of routes, is a good way to disperse wear and extend the life of your rope. In addition, letting your rope rest has been shown to reduce impact forces in drop tests.
For more on taking care of your rope, check out the video from Mammut below.
A belay device is always used in tandem with a climbing rope, and each device out there has an optimal range of rope widths it can handle. Most tube-like belay devices can accommodate a pretty wide spectrum of rope, but brake assisted belay devices work best within a narrower range.
Ever wonder why there are so many carabiner shapes and sizes? If you belay with a tubular style belay device (like a Black Diamond ATC) you should be using an “HMS” style carabiner.